Clothing

Conditions
As mentioned in the Hazards section the weather is highly variable. This requires flexibility, fine adjustments and appropriate packing.

I constantly try and maintain an even temperature so that I am warm enough to be comfortable but cool enough not to sweat. When clothes drying is potentially limited this latter is especially important. Also to save weight you may not have much to change into.

I kept my rain gear at the very top (under the lid) at all times when it wasn't being worn. I usually have a light fleece beanie and a buff in a handy pocket as nothing helps control temperature like getting your head gear right. 

I only wore the down jacket around camp, and even then was careful to keep it dry. Fleece layers are less susceptible to moisture and the thick fleece with a hood was an especially good choice on this trek. 

Layers
Lots of layers is the answer. Preferably starting with an Icebreaker merino base layer that never comes off outside Stockholm. That's actually better than it may sound. 

Upper body
Icebreaker long sleeved zip top
Sherpa Trekking T shirt
Sherpa light fleece top
Sherpa heavy weight hooded fleece top
Mont Bell Down jacket with hood
OR (Outdoor Research) Goretex Pro shell jacket

Lower body
Marks and Spencer lightweight quick drying briefs
Quechua stretch trekking shorts (I really like these and cycle in them too)
Sherpa trek pants
OR Goretex Pro Alpine pants with full zip legs

Often I wore all four lower body layers. It was comfortable and warm, but that's a lot of zips when you're in a hurry. 

Extremities
Quechua trekking cap
Quechua light fleece beanie
Outdoor Designs windstopper fleece hat
4 buffs (1 of them a polar buff)
Quechua silk gloves
Lightweight fleece gloves (lent to my companion)
Extremities Goretex mitts with heavy duty fleece liners

That last item seemed overkill when packing back in May, until it saved me from frostbite on the summit. My hands were warm, dry and comfortable in these monsters. Well worth it.

Footwear

Socks

I took six pairs of socks. Three were Quechua lightweight ankle socks. Three were wool (1 Quechua and two heavier Bridgedale ones). The latter were expensive but are starting to prove better value than cheaper ones. Still going strong after 5 years. 

I'd go with more wool and less lightweight ones next time. But I'm constrained by what I have for the bike trip. In an ideal world I'd keep two pairs dry for night time use (2x5 days and 4x3 day's for the others). All the others will get wet. You may or may not be able to dry then. Recommend double sealing used socks in zip lock bags and hope they don't escape before you can launder them. 

Shoes
I wore Salomon X-Ultra NON Goretex shoes with Superfeet green inner soles. These were fine for the conditions EXCEPT on the ice on the summit. That was a very short but rather sketchy section. Otherwise very good. 

That said, most people I saw wore boots. And probably had wetter feet for longer as a result. But they probably felt comfortable and secure in familiar footwear, so each to their own. The exceptions to this were the odd ultralight hiker and some mountain runners. They also used Salomons. 

I mostly did river crossings in bare feet unless I could easily rock hop across. The water was cold but frankly after Iceland it seemed pretty mild. That's the benefit of having one's comfort zone stretched a bit. Still it was way too cold to even consider bathing. 

Gear

Pack

This was the first trek with my new pack - a Crux AK70 70 litre angle compartment climbing sack. It's key features are light weight (1.5kg) and drybag level waterproofness. Both were really nice to have on this trip. I attached an Ortlieb drybag to the exterior with some strong shock cord. The tent and the foam mat clipped neatly onto the sides and yet it still felt like a neat narrow bag. 

The first few days with maximum load were hard but soon it was down to a reasonable level and it became very comfortable.

I'd still like to take this through a few more journeys and treks before I can feel totally confident about its durability. This is because I had some major failings with an earlier model AK57, but this seems to have been a major upgrade since then. Let's hope so. 

Tent

I used the Tarp tent Contrail (750g plus a trekking pole) that I'm currently cycle touring with. We somehow fitted in and survived quite well. This tent has already crossed the Pyrenees, Iceland and Scotland with me as well as a little use in the Himalayas, so it has form. However I wouldn't choose it if I had all my tents available to select from. I'd go for something a bit more four season. If we had had the rain we had on day one combined with the wind on day 6 for all ten days then that would have been a bit testing. 

I'd go with something really designed for wind and rain together. Still kudos to the Contrail for getting us through this in good order. My experience in Iceland was put to very good use here when siting our tent. Happily because I was anticipating wind I bought extra tent pegs (11 in all compared to the miserly 4 that come with the tent). This was a very good move. 

One big plus of this tent is that it's very fast to put up and take down provided that the ground takes pegs (not a given) and you can find a loose rack as a hammer. As a result we often put the tent up at lunchtime to enjoy some respite from wind for cooking and from potential or actual rain while eating. In an hour long break it adds a bare 5 minutes so is well worth it. 

There's a good argument for having a freestanding tent on this terrain. 

People with hammocks need not apply! Once again they are useless. Evidently I'm not a fan, but in truth most of this is open treeless terrain with low rocks at best, and high wind at worst. 

Sleeping

In August the temperatures were very moderate (0-20°C). It only froze one night. Wind and rain were more significant than cold. My Exped bag (rated to -1°C) is about 6 years old. It has been badly treated with high use and has deteriorated significantly in the upper half. Notwithstanding that I was always comfortable provided I wore the correct number of layers (and head gear) to bed. This varied considerably from 2 light layers to everything I had short of my shell layer. 

I prefer a lighter bag and extra clothing as a more flexible solution. My rule of thumb is "On the coldest night you should be comfortable with all your clothes on in your bag, otherwise you are carrying too much". So on that basis this was perfect. 

That said I'd like a new down bag rated to about -5 (and about 1kg). 

It was fortunate that we had periods of dry weather but in fact I seldom needed to dry my bag beyond what occurred naturally with body heat.

Underneath I used my trusty 3/4 length Thermarest ultralight mattress. To this I add a square of closed cell foam mat in the upper half. Not only is this useful as a sitting mat, but it also adds some insulation and protection to the Thermarest. Importantly it also stops the Thermarest from sliding about on the tent floor. Very handy when on even a slight slope. 

Cooking

We used gas with an MSR Superfly stove (Note: this is one of only a few stoves that fit both canister types - screw and click). We used one 460g and two 230g canisters. We emptied the last canister after the last breakfast. So perfectly judged but not much leeway. Another half small canister would have been wise in the event of worse weather. 

But then I'm far from minimalist with gas. We make chai three (on a bad day four) times a day and cook a decent evening meal. We didn't stint ourselves but used a windshield consistently. I took the stove up Kebnekaise and we enjoyed hot chocolate near the summit. 

We did meet him one guy with a small wood fuel stove. Good luck with that project in the wind and rain above the tree line (or in a hut!). Still they are great in their place. And to be fair there's a lot of Sweden that's ideally suited to them. Just not the central 7 days of this trek. 

The rest of the "kitchen" consisted of

• 1.8 litre Primus pot (with integrated heat exchanger)
• 0.5 litre titanium mug
• 2 spoons
• 1 plastic mug
• Opinel #8 knife

Note! The huts have gas cookers (and possibly utensils) for those that are staying there. 

Technology

• iPhone 5s for navigation and some photos
• Canon S95 for most photos
• Charger and cables (can be used in trains)
• Two battery packs (only one needed)
• Spare batteries and extra camera card (not used)
• Suunto vector watch
• Steripen (not used)

There was no internet at any point. This was one of the great blessings of this trek.

Storage

• Large plastic bags to divide top and bottom sections of pack. 
• Several stuff sacks for food (organised by meal type)
• Many ziplock bags
• Ortlieb drybag for extra clothing (attached to rear of pack)

Miscellaneous

• Headlamp (Petzl) *
• Baby powder and Cream *
• First aid kit *
• Repair kit for mattress *
• Spare sunglasses * (optimistic, but it's one of my rules)
• Lighters (another rule - I took four plus matches)
• Fine cord and some small carabiners (used as clothes lines)
• Hiking pole (in addition to the one for tent).
  In fact I walked using only one pole but used this one for the tent "vestibule" which was very handy
• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• Baby wipes
• Water bottles (1 litre Nalgene, 1.25 l and 0.5 l sports top)

* Not used

A note on water
Water is abundant. Often excessively so. Almost off of it appeared drinkable (depending a bit on your standards and level of caution). In practice I carried barely 0.25 l whereas my companion carried 1.5 l and drank it all. While I filled my drinking bottle directly from flowing streams, most of the water I drank was boiled and in the form of tea.